Chilled Green Pea Soup with Cumin and Pistachios

 

Chilled Green Pea Soup with Cumin and Pistachios

This recipe came to me by way of two newsletter readers, who'd once tried this soup at a Parisian restaurant, Café Zimmer. Here's my version, which is more than voluptuous and satisfying enough to be served to guests.
Servings 4

Ingredients
  

  • 1 pound (450 g) fresh or frozen green peas
  • 1 gallon (16 cups or 4 liters) cold water
  • tablespoons (35 g) coarse sea salt
  • ½ cup (120 g) heavy cream
  • a few twists of the pepper mill: white or black pepper both work well

For the cumin-pistachio garnish:

  • ½ teaspoon ground cumin
  • cup (80 g) heavy cream, very cold
  • ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 3-4 tablespoons roasted, shelled pistachios, finely chopped

Instructions
 

  • If you’re using frozen peas, defrost them entirely. Bring the water to a boil in a large soup pot, and add the coarse salt. Bring back to the boil and add the peas. Cook for anywhere from 5 minutes (for defrosted peas) or 13-17 minutes (for fresh peas). The cooking time for fresh peas will depend on a few factors, so taste a pea after 13 minutes and adjust the cooking time according to your tongue: the peas shouldn’t be pasty, but a distinct pea flavor should burst in your mouth when you bite.
  • Taking care to SAVE the cooking water, place a colander over a large bowl in the sink and drain the peas.
  • Place the peas back into the soup pot if you’re using a wand mixer, or in a blender (if you use a blender, the peas must be cool first). Add in 1⅓ cups (300 ml) of the cooking liquid. Using the wand mixer or blender, purée the soup until completely smooth. If the soup is too thick, you may add some more of the cooking liquid until you find the right consistency.
  • If you want a restaurant-caliber soup, strain it through a fine-meshed strainer, a china cap, or a chinois strainer. Then add the ½ cup of heavy cream and stir well. Once the soup is completely cooled, chill it in the refrigerator for at least one hour, and as long as overnight.
  • To make the cumin-pistachio garnish, dry-roast the cumin or cumin seeds in a very small cast-iron or other heavy-bottomed pan, stirring a few times. Remove the cumin from the pan as soon as you begin to smell the toasted cumin and let it cool completely. If using cumin seeds, grind them into a powder using a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.
  • Whip the heavy cream to medium peaks. Add the cooled cumin and the salt, and fold them in.
  • Divide the chilled soup into 4 soup plates, soup bowls, or any decorative cups (which you may also chill beforehand). Using two spoons to form small “dumplings” (quenelles) of whipped cream, or using a pastry bag fitted with a pastry tip, distribute the cumin whipped cream between the 4 soup cups.
  • Sprinkle with the chopped pistachios. Régalez-vous!

Notes

serves 4 as a starter
© Allison Zinder

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Allison Zinder's Paris on the Edge

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A culinary newsletter from the edge of Paris with insider tips on French cooking & eating, quirky stories, and an attempt to wrestle meaning out of - or into - the domestic chaos of life as a mother of twins. Living/bicycling in Paris since 1995.